What is an unstructured suit?
A traditional high quality suit is constructed with a type of horsehair canvas to give it it’s clean structure from the shoulders down through the chest. It will have padding in the shoulder and sometimes extra padding throughout the chest. This structure and padding accentuate a man’s proportions by adding a stronger presence to his shoulders and chest. This also adds significant weight and restriction to the jacket.
The same suit will also have lining on the inside which is typically made of bemberg or other silk-like materials. The lining offers additional weight and insulation to the jacket. It is mainly provided to protect the seams on the inside of the jacket from unnecessary wear. It also helps the jacket slip on and off easier. One of the downsides is that with the insulation, it also blocks some of the fabric’s ability to regulate temperature naturally.
For warm weather climates, like here in Arizona, it takes a lot to get a man to wear a suit because of the reasons above. This is where the unstructured (or unconstructed) suit comes in.
The unstructured suit still provides the professionalism and formality of a suit, while maintaining a cool comfort. It can be done with essentially any suiting fabric: wool, wool blends, linen, cotton, etc. The fabric’s unobstructed natural ability to breath makes the jacket feel like you’re simply wearing another shirt. The jacket is light and moves with you without restriction unlike a heavily padded jacket. We’ve worn these jackets out in 115 degree weather on multiple occasions without feeling like we were suffocating under a heavy blanket.
This is a 100% linen jacket (that goes to a full suit as well). Linen is an amazing summer fabric that has been used for apparel for thousands of years. It comes from the flax plant and depending on the plant and how it’s milled, can be rather soft or moderately stiff like this jacket. It’s cool to the touch, very breathable, and surprisingly strong. Both the soft or the stiff linens have their advantages. Note that linen is typically used for a more casual look as it wrinkles very easily. The stiffness of this particular linen gives moderate structure to the jacket providing a similar look to a structured, canvassed jacket.
This double breasted jacket pictured below is a good example of an unstructured wool jacket. The fabric is a lightweight summer wool from Scabal. Often times, like on this jacket, there is a very thin, light, and flexible cotton canvas attached to the inside of the chest piece. This allows the jacket to drape evenly without excessive wrinkling. Without this thin canvas, the jacket would drape almost like a dress shirt, flimsy and flowy.
When it’s time for your next suit, blazer, or sport coat, consider the unstructured option. Call us, email us, or stop in our store if you have any questions or if you simply want to come check these jackets out to see for yourself!
800 N 1st Ave
PHOENIX, AZ 85003
480-708-7463 | firstname.lastname@example.org